Wall Framing

Stud wall framing:

Before we started handling any materials we did a brown paper drawing first. We got all our measurements of our floor that we built and then transfered it on to paper using a 1:4 ratio, once we got all our cutting sizes together we were ready to start.

Step 1. Gather all the correct timber and dock it all to the lengths needed.

Step 2. Once everything was docked we got our top plate and bottom plate and marked all the spacings for our doors, windows and all other studs.

Step 3. Now that everything was marked out we started screwing it all together.

We had the top and bottom plates, on the ends were studs blocked out. Noggings were going across ways to the jamb stud which was joined to our understud for the window, which also had 2/120 x 35 lintel and a window trimmer. Under the window trimmer was the cripple studs.

Have not erected it yet so cant go any further with my steps.

Building our Framed Floor

Once we had all our profile set out, everything square and heights all correct we were then ready to construct our floor.

Step 1. Out came the shovels to dig the holes for the stumps, and with an allowed spacing of

600mm it was alot of holes to dig.

Step 2. Was to put the stumps in our holes making sure that we kept it flush at the top with the string line, and just off the string line on the sides of the stump, and making sure the stumps were plumb at the same time. We then put dirt back into the hole and around the stumps.

Step 3. We were then ready for the ant caps which we nailed straight to the top of the stumps.

Step 4. Next were the bearers which we had to cut to the correct lengths and also had to butt a couple of them up over a stump.

Step 5. Time for the joists. We doubled them up at each end but also had to overlap some of them because they were not long enough.

Step 6. We then put the floor down by screwing it and the tongue & groove flooring was nailed while using clamps which clamped onto the joist while keeping the T&G tight together, when it came to the last couple we used a lever and temporary block to clamp it.

Subfloor Framing & Wall framing

Subfloor Framing & Wall Framing

Sub Floor Framing

When building a subfloor frame for your home the best way to protect it from termites is to use an ant cap on top of all your stumps before you attach any of your bearers.

Regular inspections will still need to be carried out as the termites can build galleries around the ant cap.

For brick veneer homes you can use stainless steel mesh also known as Termi-mesh. The gaps in this mesh are to small for the termites to fit there head through which in end stops them as there head is the largest part of there body.

The H grade for subfloor materials should be 'H3'. Which protects against moderate fungal decay and termite hazard and is good for exterior structural timber work.

Subfloor Project

Once we had everything square off our profiles and all our heights correct we were then ready to start installing our framed floor.

Door hung, next was to hole saw for the handles

We had to hang 6 internal doors into this house.


Had to be careful when installing the doors, because we work so close to the mine majority of the houses have moved so much from the blasting so alot of the frames are out by heaps.
Over all it went well, didnt have to throw any doors out and got them all hung.
Tools used-
Combination Square
Electric Saw
Electric Planer
Retractable Tape
Folding Rule
Electric Sander
Chisel
Hammer

Book Shelf Brackets

This was a little project that Tim gave us towards the end of the day which involved using a jig saw, block plane and a mitre saw.

First we had to cut everything to length using the mitre saw then mark our timber along the edges to take of the aris, which we did using the block plane. Next was to use the jig saw and cut out the support that goes between the two brackets, I'm thinking I need a little more practice on the jig saw as it wasn't very square. Nothing a little sanding wouldn't fix though. And then finally it was time to srew them together which I did with a pilot hole and also countersunk and a little glue. Turned out looking actually good, was worried about about my cuts on the mitre saw, but didn't need to be in the end.