Thursday, September 10, 2009

Wall Framing

Stud wall framing:


Before we started handling any materials we did a brown paper drawing first. We got all our measurements of our floor that we built and then transfered it on to paper using a 1:4 ratio, once we got all our cutting sizes together we were ready to start.




Step 1. Gather all the correct timber and dock it all to the lengths needed.

Step 2. Once everything was docked we got our top plate and bottom plate and marked all the spacings for our doors, windows and all other studs.

Step 3. Now that everything was marked out we started screwing it all together.

We had the top and bottom plates, on the ends were studs blocked out. Noggings were going across ways to the jamb stud which was joined to our understud for the window, which also had 2/120 x 35 lintel and a window trimmer. Under the window trimmer was the cripple studs.
Have not erected it yet so cant go any further with my steps.

Building our Framed Floor







Once we had all our profile set out, everything square and heights all correct we were then ready to construct our floor.




Step 1. Out came the shovels to dig the holes for the stumps, and with an allowed spacing of
600mm it was alot of holes to dig.


Step 2. Was to put the stumps in our holes making sure that we kept it flush at the top with the string line, and just off the string line on the sides of the stump, and making sure the stumps were plumb at the same time. We then put dirt back into the hole and around the stumps.


Step 3. We were then ready for the ant caps which we nailed straight to the top of the stumps.


Step 4. Next were the bearers which we had to cut to the correct lengths and also had to butt a couple of them up over a stump.


Step 5. Time for the joists. We doubled them up at each end but also had to overlap some of them because they were not long enough.


Step 6. We then put the floor down by screwing it and the tongue & groove flooring was nailed while using clamps which clamped onto the joist while keeping the T&G tight together, when it came to the last couple we used a lever and temporary block to clamp it.


Subfloor Framing & Wall framing

Subfloor Framing & Wall Framing






Sub Floor Framing










When building a subfloor frame for your home the best way to protect it from termites is to use an ant cap on top of all your stumps before you attach any of your bearers.












Regular inspections will still need to be carried out as the termites can build galleries around the ant cap.






For brick veneer homes you can use stainless steel mesh also known as Termi-mesh. The gaps in this mesh are to small for the termites to fit there head through which in end stops them as there head is the largest part of there body.




The H grade for subfloor materials should be 'H3'. Which protects against moderate fungal decay and termite hazard and is good for exterior structural timber work.




Subfloor Project




Once we had everything square off our profiles and all our heights correct we were then ready to start installing our framed floor.









Thursday, June 18, 2009


Door hung, next was to hole saw for the handles




We had to hang 6 internal doors into this house.


Had to be careful when installing the doors, because we work so close to the mine majority of the houses have moved so much from the blasting so alot of the frames are out by heaps.
Over all it went well, didnt have to throw any doors out and got them all hung.
Tools used-
Combination Square
Electric Saw
Electric Planer
Retractable Tape
Folding Rule
Electric Sander
Chisel
Hammer

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Book Shelf Brackets



This was a little project that Tim gave us towards the end of the day which involved using a jig saw, block plane and a mitre saw.




First we had to cut everything to length using the mitre saw then mark our timber along the edges to take of the aris, which we did using the block plane. Next was to use the jig saw and cut out the support that goes between the two brackets, I'm thinking I need a little more practice on the jig saw as it wasn't very square. Nothing a little sanding wouldn't fix though. And then finally it was time to srew them together which I did with a pilot hole and also countersunk and a little glue. Turned out looking actually good, was worried about about my cuts on the mitre saw, but didn't need to be in the end.



Here are some photos of the finished product



Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Well, have now finished the saw stool. Everything came up ok apart from a few angles which were chiseled out on the piss a little, but it was'nt anything you could notice too easily.

The final plane that I had to give the top of the legs chiped out a little but I found doing small swirls with the planer came up with alot cleaner finish and less chipping out.

So overall I got a pass for the stool and now have it at home for use there.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009




Very similar to the saw stools we are making
A sign that you might see when there is asbestos removal in process


Correct P.P.E for asbestos removal

Joels Saw Stool Adventure

Had to make a saw stool using pine. Tools that I used were :

Bench Hook- To cut pine on bench while holding it against the block
Mallet- To hit the back of the chisel with
Chisel- To chisel out grooves and bevels and rebate
Folding Rule- For measuring
Combination Square- Used to check the square and marking gauge
Sliding Bevel- To get my angles
Drawing Pencil- For marking the timber
Marking Gauge- For drawing my lines parallel to the timber
Planer- For taking of the aris


Before we could start on our saw stool we had to do a practice using just 2 legs, which prepared me for the real thing.
Learnt plenty doing the saw stool especially how to do angles and chisel correctly without making a mess of the timber. Alot of sanding was also involved.
Im still going on the saw stool but will update you about the finishing product.

Tuesday, May 26, 2009

MSDS

A Material Safety Data Sheet has important information on it regarding a hazardous substance.

The type of information on it should contain : substance product name

: the ingredients in the substance

: the chemical & physical properties

: health hazard information

: how to use and handle the substance safely

: the address and telephone of the manufacturer



We need the MSDS so we can refer back to it if we have any queries on handling or if an accident does happen with any substances or chemicals we know how to treat the patient or clean up.







Medium Density Fibre Board



MDF was originally developed only for furniture. But because of its strength it now has many uses including kitchens, mouldings, bathroom invironments, exterior cladding and structual applications are also increasing. This is why you will come across this everywhere in and around a building site.



Manual or mechanical cutting or abrasion performed on MDF may cause irritation to the eyes, dermatitis to sensitive skinned people and depending on the species, wood dust may cause respiratory irritation.

To reduce these hazards its recommended that the correct P.P.E should be worn including safety glasses, gloves and dust mask when cutting the material.

MDF should be handled with gloves on and stored away from incompatibles, kept in a cool dry area, and away from any ignition source.

I dont think the risks are to serious to your health as long as the correct P.P.E is worn.





Fibre Cement Sheeting



Fibre Cement Sheeting is used for flooring, panelling, decking, floor trusses, toilet partitions and many building materials and products.



This product is most likely to be hazardous when using power tools and sanding.

Its recommended that long sleeved shirts and long trousers are worn, with gloves, glasses and a respiratory mask when cutting or sanding.

Fibre Cement Sheets should be stored flat and level in a covered dry area. Lift, handle and carry the sheets on there edge.

Correct P.P.E worn and the risks to your health are low.





Asbestos a Home Renovators Guide

a) Corrugated roof sheeting, Eaves, Lining above windows and doors

b) Asbestos is not harmful or dangerous untill it is broken up, drilled into or disturbed so that fibres have become airborne. It is dangerous because it can cause asbestosis which is scarring of lung tissue that impairs breathing, it also causes lung cancer.

c) You can minimise the chance of being exposed to asbestos by not breaking it up and exposing the fibres or drilling into it. If you are to do either of those, the correct P.P.E should be worn like a full body suite, disposable gloves, safety goggles and a respiratory mask.

d) No you dont need a licence to remove asbestos but there are people who are licenced to do so

e) I consider the risk of being exposed fairly low as long as care is taken and knowledge of its where abouts is known